Today we received great news from our friend Mike in Libya - we have reservations for airline travel from Accra to Tripoli!! For a decent price too! In business class - now I am not quite sure what business class is like on Afriqiyah Airlines, but it has to be better than back of the bus...
We also got our air travel booked from Tripoli back to Frankfurt - so our trip planning is pretty much complete!
Also over the weekend we were in touch with a micro finance group based in Washington, D.C. who do work in Senegal. I found them through Kiva - an online micro finance organization which allows you to loan money to a person (and their project) and they repay you over a specific period of time. You can contribute as little as $25 towards as many projects as you like. As the repayments come in, they are credited towards your account and you can lend them out again. Great idea - I would recommend you checkout http://www.kiva.org/ - this is the best way to end poverty around the world - free enterprise. Lend a hand up, not a hand out!
Back to micro finance in Senegal...a village close to Niassam where we will be staying for several days is one of the many villages SEM is active. Kim and I hope to visit with some of the clients of SEM who benefit from Kiva lenders. What better way to close the circle!!
Lookout, I am a Kiva convert now...wait till we visit with some of the people that have benefited from them!! If you join up, you can put my email (grantinv@gmail.com) in the referral - I don't get anything but a thank you and hopefully build up some "goodwill" with Kiva!!
Monday, November 05, 2007
Friday, October 19, 2007
Immunization, Part Deux
Since West Africa is predominantly French speaking, I will be throwing in bits in my dazzling French...lookout!!
If you go back to the May 17, 2005 entry from MacAfrica 1, you will find a funny story about Kim and needles. On Monday this week, we went to the clinic to get the low down on our requirements for MacAfrica 2. Kim had been doing some research to discover the likelihood that we would even require a shot. The only one we might need was for meningitis. To keep Kim calm on the ride up to the clinic I told her that I thought we probably wouldn't need any shot...known that we likely would - if you read about my previous experience with the woman and needles, you'd lie to!
A doctor friend of ours also said that drinking a V8 juice just before you go to get your shots will help you reduce your chances of fainting - also keep your quad muscles flexed. I don't think Kim has a problem keeping ALL her muscles flexed when she is going to get a shot. With my lying and the V8 juice in her system, Kim is at least looking calm.
When we get closer to the clinic she begins to get a bit tense. I have a feeling that if I had to stop at a red light or stop sign, she would definitely consider bolting - so I just keep cruising. We get to the clinic, with Kim in tow. Get settled into our chairs to wait for the doctor. I go to the washroom - leaving Kim unattended for a few minutes - knowing that I might come back to an empty chair. But Kim is there when I return...phew.
We go into see the doctor, she reviews our previous shots and everything is looking good. I can see Kim thinks she is just about in the clear. Then the dreaded map comes out. The meningitis countries map. It includes Senegal, Mali and Ghana - we need the shot. Kim goes white - I am thinking she might faint before we even see the needle this time. All is okay.
Next we sit in the "shot room". Kim assumes her position in the big lazy boy chair, we prop her feet up. The nurse comes in and within 15 seconds has the needle set up, in Kim's arm and ready to shot me - wow - she is good. Kim doesn't even have a chance to know it was coming. There was a bit of tenseness, but no fainting. What a trooper Kim is, but not nearly as entertaining as before. Sorry.
One more thing off the travel checklist...
If you go back to the May 17, 2005 entry from MacAfrica 1, you will find a funny story about Kim and needles. On Monday this week, we went to the clinic to get the low down on our requirements for MacAfrica 2. Kim had been doing some research to discover the likelihood that we would even require a shot. The only one we might need was for meningitis. To keep Kim calm on the ride up to the clinic I told her that I thought we probably wouldn't need any shot...known that we likely would - if you read about my previous experience with the woman and needles, you'd lie to!
A doctor friend of ours also said that drinking a V8 juice just before you go to get your shots will help you reduce your chances of fainting - also keep your quad muscles flexed. I don't think Kim has a problem keeping ALL her muscles flexed when she is going to get a shot. With my lying and the V8 juice in her system, Kim is at least looking calm.
When we get closer to the clinic she begins to get a bit tense. I have a feeling that if I had to stop at a red light or stop sign, she would definitely consider bolting - so I just keep cruising. We get to the clinic, with Kim in tow. Get settled into our chairs to wait for the doctor. I go to the washroom - leaving Kim unattended for a few minutes - knowing that I might come back to an empty chair. But Kim is there when I return...phew.
We go into see the doctor, she reviews our previous shots and everything is looking good. I can see Kim thinks she is just about in the clear. Then the dreaded map comes out. The meningitis countries map. It includes Senegal, Mali and Ghana - we need the shot. Kim goes white - I am thinking she might faint before we even see the needle this time. All is okay.
Next we sit in the "shot room". Kim assumes her position in the big lazy boy chair, we prop her feet up. The nurse comes in and within 15 seconds has the needle set up, in Kim's arm and ready to shot me - wow - she is good. Kim doesn't even have a chance to know it was coming. There was a bit of tenseness, but no fainting. What a trooper Kim is, but not nearly as entertaining as before. Sorry.
One more thing off the travel checklist...
Friday, October 12, 2007
Our First West African Friend
As I previously mentioned, we chose to use a tour company called Riverside Mali for our tour through Mali. You must remember that tourism in West Africa is a fledgling industry. Many countries in the area have been ravaged by civil war for much of the last 2 decades (or longer), which has kept the tourists at bay.
How we chose Riverside was very "2007" - we searched the internet and found them. Then of course we tried to find A review or two of Riverside. This is where our due diligence ran into difficulty. We couldn't find a review any where. That made us a little suspicious. Was Riverside a real company? Were they out to scam a couple poor Canadians?
Our next attempt to figure out who Riveside was included searching other tour companies we had found - did they have reviews. Nope. It appears no one has written a review of their travels through Mali. Fine. Let's try and find out who owns them. We had some success with this angle. The owners are a French couple who came up on various other websites in regards to Mali. The wife was behind the campaign to have Timbuktu placed on the new list of the 7 Wonders of the World.
Now with that info, we established contact with Riverside. First by email - Kim asked for some information on the tours available and pricing. A response came from Dicko - great! One of the things that Riverside "markets" on their website is tours of the Niger River on jet skis. Hooked me with that! Dicko says that the jet skis are not worth it. We find that kinda weird - the are a much more expensive option - perhaps Dicko is really working for us!
Now instead of email, Dicko figures a phone conversation would be easier. So Dicko calls Kim (who is THE French translator for MacAfrica 2007). They have a chat about Canada - Dicko hasn't had many Canadians visit him. He asks about our weather and is truly amazed that it gets as cold as it does here and we live through it!
Once we decide on the tour program we want, it is time to get some money to Riverside as a deposit. Once again a little tepid about wiring money to them. Kim gets on the phone with Riverside's bank - PNB Paribas in Toronto. No luck finding anything out. Then calls PNB Paribas in Paris. Once again no luck. Who cares at this point - let's fire some money to them.
With everything in place, we figure we won't hear from Dicko until we are in Bamako, Mali. Not so. Dicko calls Kim almost weekly. To chat. How's the weather? How else can I help? They exchange photos of Mali and Canada. Once again he can't believe that there is that much snow here (Kim sent a picture of her skiing!).
We aren't sure if Dicko is just super friendly or if we are big spenders from Canada so give'em the gold treatment or if it is part of the slickster scam?? One of our friends who spent time in West Africa told us that they are just really friendly and many of them get a phone number and just call to chat. No agenda, just saying hi. He recently called to wish us much happiness for the new year as Ramadan is near it's end and then they will be feasting!
We are very excited about spending 10 days with Dicko touring through Mali!! He is going to be great!!
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Let the tale begin
Over the last 6 weeks, Kim and I have been spending more and more time planning our West African adventure. We had book the majority of our air travel on points back in January 2007. We knew that December was the best month to travel in West Africa since it is the dry season.
Let me take a step back first - why West Africa. Kim and I had really enjoyed our East and South Africa experience in 2005. We also enjoyed Egypt in 2007. So Africa was certainly a place we wanted to explore more of. Since Kim is fluent in French - although she thinks she isn't most of the time - we thought French West Africa would be fun. And who wasn't told when they were a kid that they were either going to get sent off to Timbuktu or they were going to drive their mother to Timbuktu!
We had booked our travel to start in Dakar, spend 3 weeks in West Africa and depart from Accra, Ghana back to Frankfurt where we had 5 "open" days. During these days we were planning to visit the Wrigglesworth's in Libya. You can imagine booking a trip almost a year in advance can be a bit anti-climatic. Get the tickets booked...and wait.
August 21st came around, by instinct (with 3 months to go) Kim and I started to get serious about booking "stuff". First we had to figure out what we wanted to do with our 3 weeks. After much consideration, we decided that after 3 days in Dakar, we would travel to a nature reserve south of Dakar for 5 days. We found an article in the New York Times profiling a couple of nature lodges. One was very expensive, the other not so much. Surprisingly, we choose the cheaper one - Le Lodge de Niassam. After this we are heading back to Dakar to fly to Bamako, the capital of Mali.
Mali is a country that Kim has really grown fond of. We planned to spend 10-12 days in Mali. I will tell the tale of picking a "tour" company in a later post. Our journey through Mali will consist of a flight to Timbuktu, driving to Mopti, camping on the banks of the Niger River, hiking in the Dogon country (sleeping under the stars, on a roof!), spending a day at the famous Djenne Market and finishing off with a couple days in Bamako. From there we fly to Accra, Ghana.
Let me take a step back first - why West Africa. Kim and I had really enjoyed our East and South Africa experience in 2005. We also enjoyed Egypt in 2007. So Africa was certainly a place we wanted to explore more of. Since Kim is fluent in French - although she thinks she isn't most of the time - we thought French West Africa would be fun. And who wasn't told when they were a kid that they were either going to get sent off to Timbuktu or they were going to drive their mother to Timbuktu!
We had booked our travel to start in Dakar, spend 3 weeks in West Africa and depart from Accra, Ghana back to Frankfurt where we had 5 "open" days. During these days we were planning to visit the Wrigglesworth's in Libya. You can imagine booking a trip almost a year in advance can be a bit anti-climatic. Get the tickets booked...and wait.
August 21st came around, by instinct (with 3 months to go) Kim and I started to get serious about booking "stuff". First we had to figure out what we wanted to do with our 3 weeks. After much consideration, we decided that after 3 days in Dakar, we would travel to a nature reserve south of Dakar for 5 days. We found an article in the New York Times profiling a couple of nature lodges. One was very expensive, the other not so much. Surprisingly, we choose the cheaper one - Le Lodge de Niassam. After this we are heading back to Dakar to fly to Bamako, the capital of Mali.
Mali is a country that Kim has really grown fond of. We planned to spend 10-12 days in Mali. I will tell the tale of picking a "tour" company in a later post. Our journey through Mali will consist of a flight to Timbuktu, driving to Mopti, camping on the banks of the Niger River, hiking in the Dogon country (sleeping under the stars, on a roof!), spending a day at the famous Djenne Market and finishing off with a couple days in Bamako. From there we fly to Accra, Ghana.
So far we haven't made firm plans for our 5 days in Ghana, but we think we'll travel to Cape Coast for a few days and then back to Accra for our flight back to Frankfurt.
From Frankfurt we are hoping to travel to Tripoli, Libya to see our friends who live in Benghazi. This part of the trip depends partly on travel visa's. Libya is trying to develop a tourism industry, but they don't have all the parts in place currently.
Thursday, October 04, 2007
Mac Back to Africa
MacAfrica is going back to it's "homeland". Kim and I will be traveling through West and North Africa this Fall. We will be hitting Senegal, Mali and Ghana in West Africa and hoping to visit friends in Libya.
We head off on Nov 21 - so the plans are taking final shape...shots are on tap in a week or so (I hope to not have to repeat the scene from 2005!).
Keep watching for more regular posts as we get closer to launch date...
We head off on Nov 21 - so the plans are taking final shape...shots are on tap in a week or so (I hope to not have to repeat the scene from 2005!).
Keep watching for more regular posts as we get closer to launch date...
Thursday, February 23, 2006
Thinking of traveling to Africa
If you are thinking of traveling to Africa and are looking for some advice or have questions, drop us a line at macafrica@gmail.com. We would be happy to provide you with our thoughts and advice!
Wednesday, September 14, 2005
What Now?
There seem to be a few people still looking at this blog...
It could be the addiction of known what is going on in Africa...well we can't help you on that front anymore...
Perhaps people are so bored at work they figure reading MacAfrica's old stories is better than talking to Fred in accounting...
Most likely people just accidently click on their MacAfrica link in their favorites and curse our stupid trip that happened so long ago...
If you aren't careful I might just start posting about my thoughts...which I know won't be very thrilling or long or frequent!!
Grant
It could be the addiction of known what is going on in Africa...well we can't help you on that front anymore...
Perhaps people are so bored at work they figure reading MacAfrica's old stories is better than talking to Fred in accounting...
Most likely people just accidently click on their MacAfrica link in their favorites and curse our stupid trip that happened so long ago...
If you aren't careful I might just start posting about my thoughts...which I know won't be very thrilling or long or frequent!!
Grant
Wednesday, September 07, 2005
News
News Flash - you two are the only ones (besides me) reading this blog now. Has this replaced your rapid fire crackberry communication or is this just a more public "add on"? And everyone knows me well enough to know that I wouldn't swish and describe diet coke. DC is for thirst quenching...perhaps mindlessly passing a few minutes. Wine, on the other hand, is an intellectual discussion. A value added proposition to the precious moments that stand still in it's presence. Wine is a level of complexity that, when added to food, provides the most monumental oral satisfaction possible when one is by ones self.
Friday, September 02, 2005
Wine snob gone overboard
Yesterday, Kim and I are out enjoying Alberta's 100th Birthday and during dinner Kim raises her glass of Diet Coke...swirls it around...takes a deep sniff...sips a bit, rolls it around her delicate palate...proclaims the deep taste of caramel and the tintilating sensation of phosphoric acid tickling her throat...help!
g
g
Sunday, August 28, 2005
We're Back!
Calgary 11:30am - We are back and enjoying the clean calmness of Calgary!! You really notice how great our City is when you have been away for awhile!
We are going to try to get some more photos up or a link to a site where the photos are posted. Also, there might be a few more stories we put up on the blog for those that we aren't going to be seeing soon - we keep thinking of more things we want to put up here.
Thanks for reading and contributing - we always looked forward to seeing what people at home were saying!!!
g&k
We are going to try to get some more photos up or a link to a site where the photos are posted. Also, there might be a few more stories we put up on the blog for those that we aren't going to be seeing soon - we keep thinking of more things we want to put up here.
Thanks for reading and contributing - we always looked forward to seeing what people at home were saying!!!
g&k
Thursday, August 25, 2005
massaging reclining chair
Cape Town 5:47 pm - Hopkins...it is looking like you may have to tune in for next season. This season would be far too predictable with that kind of ending. Instead, let me paint you a picture. Stellenbosch was a desert compared to Constantia!!!! There may only be 5 vineyards there but it is gorgeous beyond belief! For Jenkins - picture beautiful women, long blond hair riding their horses beside the fields of grapes. Exquisite (and I'm sure very expensive) houses but the place is amazingly gorgeous and wine - let me tell you!!! There was fresh fennel, there was vanilla, there was limited release...it just doesn't get any better! Yes, we have more wine to bring home. Or should I say, I have more wine to bring home and I'm hoping that Grant will help me carry it. I think I pushed my luck with another half day of wine tasting but I'll do whatever it takes to make it up to Grant! The wine was superb!!! I think Grant would have preferred to sit in the car but he did wander in to every winery and he even tasted three wines!!
Our morning was quite the contrast with a trip to District Six Museum. District Six was a multi racial part of South Africa that lived in harmony until the 1960's with the beginning of Apartheid. The government declared it a "white only" area and shipped everyone off to the Townships. We visited the Townships afterwards which are a stark reality check of shanty town after shanty town. We did visit (perhaps to make us "tourists" feel better) the pre-school that the tour company helps to fund. 68 kids in total attend this pre-school and at the time we walked in, there were 25 kids aged 3-4 years. Our guide warned us that they are used to seeing people drop by and he said "if you pick up one, you have to pick them all up". Sure enough, with squeals of delight, these kids wrap themselves around your legs and bring you toys to play with them. They are the most wonderful kids to see and yes, I almost took a few home!! Grant informed me that you can't claim back the VAT tax on these items. So, I left them all there.
Having learned "compromise" on this trip, I've decided not to hold fast to my "last dinner" being at a winery (Grant had endured enough already). So we're off to have dinner at an Indian restaurant we tried on our first night here. THE most amazing Indian food I've ever had so I'm not too hard done by!
Looking forward to seeing everyone!!! And I am sure there will be a few more posts as we travel home ;)
k&g
Our morning was quite the contrast with a trip to District Six Museum. District Six was a multi racial part of South Africa that lived in harmony until the 1960's with the beginning of Apartheid. The government declared it a "white only" area and shipped everyone off to the Townships. We visited the Townships afterwards which are a stark reality check of shanty town after shanty town. We did visit (perhaps to make us "tourists" feel better) the pre-school that the tour company helps to fund. 68 kids in total attend this pre-school and at the time we walked in, there were 25 kids aged 3-4 years. Our guide warned us that they are used to seeing people drop by and he said "if you pick up one, you have to pick them all up". Sure enough, with squeals of delight, these kids wrap themselves around your legs and bring you toys to play with them. They are the most wonderful kids to see and yes, I almost took a few home!! Grant informed me that you can't claim back the VAT tax on these items. So, I left them all there.
Having learned "compromise" on this trip, I've decided not to hold fast to my "last dinner" being at a winery (Grant had endured enough already). So we're off to have dinner at an Indian restaurant we tried on our first night here. THE most amazing Indian food I've ever had so I'm not too hard done by!
Looking forward to seeing everyone!!! And I am sure there will be a few more posts as we travel home ;)
k&g
Wednesday, August 24, 2005
Wine country - LUCKY ME!!!!
Cape Town - 5:45 pm - I can't believe I didn't get to put in my two cents worth about the wine tasting!! You can't possibly appreciate the nuances of yesterday from a guy who thought $1.50 for 500 mL of beer in Tanzania was the best thing he'd ever seen!!!! So, since our hotel has free internet access...I'll just add a few pertinent details.
First of all, I will confirm that South Africa wine tasting is by far the most generous pours I've ever seen (not a bad thing at all!) and they do export at least half of their production. For those that have an interest - apparently Canada and the US are THE hardest places to export wine.
It is incredibly difficult to find "secret" wines (ie: those you can't buy in Canada) so harbouring that small disappointment, I forge forward nonetheless! I was going to make a "wine history" - buying a bottle from every winery we visited (like I did in France with Little One!) but Mr. Practical pointed out the inefficiencies of this little project and I couldn't argue since the last time I tried it through BC we had a cheap cooler leaking water from the melted ice all over our trunk (and our luggage).
As for the snooty woman - I agree she was snooty but even snooty people can have good insight into wine. I will, in my defence, say that I was still sober enough to notice that she tried to charge me $10 insteady of $2 for the wine tasting (I'm not as "rose colored glasses" as I used to be - now I'm a force to be reckoned with!!).
We did find a fabulous winery with a very helpful tasting guy that had one of the most interesting "bordeaux blend" wines here - full of all kinds of spices...oregano, thyme, sage! It appears that "bordeaux blends" are a big crazy...next to Pinotage out of the Stellenbosch region. They also made a brandy which surprised me (and an extremely large pig living on their lawn but the pig didn't affect the wine tasting so...live and let live!).
As for our dinner (which cost less than $100 CDN)...the sommellier spoke the most beautiful French I'd ever heard! She was incredible! Since Grant was totally amivalent while I ranted about the 130 wines by the glass...I almost went home with her - simply mesmerizing!!!
Looking forward to dinner at the hotel tonight which also has a fabulous bar (confirmed by the sales guy whilst out shopping - he was very well dressed and sold me a great pair of jeans so he must be legit!). It was on the front page of the local paper today that they've just launched a new martini - with a diamond necklace in it. Grant doesn't know it but maybe I'll order that before dinner! ;)
As this is all (too) quickly coming to an end, tomorrow night I am insisting that we have dinner at a winery - notwithstanding that Grant looked at the menu and it's apparently "boring". I can't really complain as he has an excellent sense of direction, has been a great designated driver and down deep...I think he really enjoys all the adjectives and all the process of wine tasting!!
k (&g)
First of all, I will confirm that South Africa wine tasting is by far the most generous pours I've ever seen (not a bad thing at all!) and they do export at least half of their production. For those that have an interest - apparently Canada and the US are THE hardest places to export wine.
It is incredibly difficult to find "secret" wines (ie: those you can't buy in Canada) so harbouring that small disappointment, I forge forward nonetheless! I was going to make a "wine history" - buying a bottle from every winery we visited (like I did in France with Little One!) but Mr. Practical pointed out the inefficiencies of this little project and I couldn't argue since the last time I tried it through BC we had a cheap cooler leaking water from the melted ice all over our trunk (and our luggage).
As for the snooty woman - I agree she was snooty but even snooty people can have good insight into wine. I will, in my defence, say that I was still sober enough to notice that she tried to charge me $10 insteady of $2 for the wine tasting (I'm not as "rose colored glasses" as I used to be - now I'm a force to be reckoned with!!).
We did find a fabulous winery with a very helpful tasting guy that had one of the most interesting "bordeaux blend" wines here - full of all kinds of spices...oregano, thyme, sage! It appears that "bordeaux blends" are a big crazy...next to Pinotage out of the Stellenbosch region. They also made a brandy which surprised me (and an extremely large pig living on their lawn but the pig didn't affect the wine tasting so...live and let live!).
As for our dinner (which cost less than $100 CDN)...the sommellier spoke the most beautiful French I'd ever heard! She was incredible! Since Grant was totally amivalent while I ranted about the 130 wines by the glass...I almost went home with her - simply mesmerizing!!!
Looking forward to dinner at the hotel tonight which also has a fabulous bar (confirmed by the sales guy whilst out shopping - he was very well dressed and sold me a great pair of jeans so he must be legit!). It was on the front page of the local paper today that they've just launched a new martini - with a diamond necklace in it. Grant doesn't know it but maybe I'll order that before dinner! ;)
As this is all (too) quickly coming to an end, tomorrow night I am insisting that we have dinner at a winery - notwithstanding that Grant looked at the menu and it's apparently "boring". I can't really complain as he has an excellent sense of direction, has been a great designated driver and down deep...I think he really enjoys all the adjectives and all the process of wine tasting!!
k (&g)
Wine Country, lucky me
Cape Town 3:45pm - I am currently unsupervised, so you will get a true account of our day in "Whine" Country yesterday.
As most of you know, Kim is a big time wine lover - me - can take it or leave it. So my job is to drive Kim around to all the wineries of her choice. Kim is also a poor map reader, so I have to drive and find the winery...and Kim just keeps drinking...
We get going fairly early and arrive at our first winery by around 10am...Warwick Estate. Since it is winter down here, we expect it to be very quiet at most of the spots we will go to...we are also on a quest to find wine that we can't find back home. As Kim is getting ready to taste the first wine...I am noticing the rather generous pour that has occurred...and I am worried...if this is how they poor down here, this is going to be a loooooong day for me. As I am not really into the whole wine thing, I really don't pay much attention to anything about the wineries as far as research goes, but the one thing I do know is that there is a winery that is run by a lady from Edmonton. For some reason this tiny fact has stuck in my head since I read it in the EnRoute magazine about 2 months ago...but I don't really remember the name of the winery, but Warwick could be it. I tell Kim I think it is Warwick...she is doubtful. After 3 or 4 glasses, we are chatting with the young lady who is doing the tasting for us and Kim asks if there is a Canadian connection to the winery. The young lady says, no I don't think so, but let me ask the owner. Turns out, this is the winery. The lady left Edmonton in 1972 and now her children run the Estate...small world. This winery is very low on the wine snob scale, probably about a 2 out of 10.
Our next winery is Kanonkop (or something like this). When we walk in the tasting room there are about 5 Americans there tasting already. Kim casually walks around the room, then sorta brushes by the tasting counter...the woman from the winery doesn't really acknowledge us for about 2-3 minutes...my wine snob scale has just hit a spike of 8. When the woman does welcome us up to the counter, she is really much more interested in the Americans, but tolerates us at the same time. Once the Americans leave, it is just the wine lady and us...let the wine snob talk begin. They produce 4 wines. Kim tries all 4. Big surprise. As Kim and the lady begin to discuss each wine, I am hearing Kim-"oh, I smell strawberry and chocolate"...Wine Lady (WL)-"just last weekend I paired this with chocolate the other evening, went over fabulously, if you have the right chocolate...bitter dark, of course"...K-"now that there is food associated with it, I can taste the combination, delightful"...then there is me rolling my eyes! The dialogue continues...and since I had to sit through it...so do you...WL-"can you smell cherries?"....K-"YES!"...WL-"I couldn't before one of our clients mentioned it, it is blah blah cherry from over blah blah there"...K-"now all I can smell is the cherry"...wine 3...after Kim has rinsed her glass with water, WL-"we don't want to taste water, let's rinse that out with wine" - as she rinses out with wine...oh my god. WL-"now smell this glass (the one Kim just drank out of)...when it is empty you get the true smells...less blah blah per mL"...K-"wow, that is intense"...now the 4th wine...WL-"this one has cigar and berry tones, after being aged in French and American Oak"...K-"oh yes"...WL-"and banana (pronounced in a thick South African accent, doesn't sound like banana)...I mean banana (North American accent)"...K-whimsical laugh...me snob scale is hitting 12. I don't think we can top this winery, but Kim is going to give it a try.
The comparisons of wine to other smelly objects is always interesting...we had cigars, chocolate, cherry, banana, strawberry, black tea, oaky...I am sure there were a few more, but I only had the inspiration to pay attention for a blog entry half way through the day. Lucky for me, the pours weren't all quite as aggressive as the first spot, but Kim was feeling pretty good by the end (8 wineries in total). The other comment that made me laugh was..."I like the Shiraz, it is so up front"...
As we found out, it is easier to find a secret wine in BC than South Africa. Only one winery we visited didn't export to Canada (my pick, last one of the day was chosen by me do to their excellent logo). We only purchased a case of wine...very surprising to me!!
For dinner last night we went to a steak joint which boasts the largest wine bar with wine by the glass in the world - 130 wines by the glass. We were expecting a bit of a tacky place, but it turned out to be great. You wouldn't think Kim would get as excited as she did about a wine bar after having toured around wineries all day, but she was beside herself. Once we sat down at our table, our waiter sent the sommelier over to our table. The sommelier asked us where we were from - once she heard Canada, she started speaking French to Kim (I think they were talking about me). Turns out the sommelier is from France and followed her husband to South Africa.
The restaurant has a great set up for the wine by the glass. They have a system like what is used for draft beer. Each wine has a big straw into it and nitrogen fills up the empty space, so the wine stays perfect. The average wine is up there for 3 weeks...very interesting. Kim is starring at the wine tapping system and claims she needs one herself, not 130 wines, of course...just 12 or so...such modesty.
We haven't seen Table Mountain yet, covered in the famous "Table Clothe" so far...
G (&k)
As most of you know, Kim is a big time wine lover - me - can take it or leave it. So my job is to drive Kim around to all the wineries of her choice. Kim is also a poor map reader, so I have to drive and find the winery...and Kim just keeps drinking...
We get going fairly early and arrive at our first winery by around 10am...Warwick Estate. Since it is winter down here, we expect it to be very quiet at most of the spots we will go to...we are also on a quest to find wine that we can't find back home. As Kim is getting ready to taste the first wine...I am noticing the rather generous pour that has occurred...and I am worried...if this is how they poor down here, this is going to be a loooooong day for me. As I am not really into the whole wine thing, I really don't pay much attention to anything about the wineries as far as research goes, but the one thing I do know is that there is a winery that is run by a lady from Edmonton. For some reason this tiny fact has stuck in my head since I read it in the EnRoute magazine about 2 months ago...but I don't really remember the name of the winery, but Warwick could be it. I tell Kim I think it is Warwick...she is doubtful. After 3 or 4 glasses, we are chatting with the young lady who is doing the tasting for us and Kim asks if there is a Canadian connection to the winery. The young lady says, no I don't think so, but let me ask the owner. Turns out, this is the winery. The lady left Edmonton in 1972 and now her children run the Estate...small world. This winery is very low on the wine snob scale, probably about a 2 out of 10.
Our next winery is Kanonkop (or something like this). When we walk in the tasting room there are about 5 Americans there tasting already. Kim casually walks around the room, then sorta brushes by the tasting counter...the woman from the winery doesn't really acknowledge us for about 2-3 minutes...my wine snob scale has just hit a spike of 8. When the woman does welcome us up to the counter, she is really much more interested in the Americans, but tolerates us at the same time. Once the Americans leave, it is just the wine lady and us...let the wine snob talk begin. They produce 4 wines. Kim tries all 4. Big surprise. As Kim and the lady begin to discuss each wine, I am hearing Kim-"oh, I smell strawberry and chocolate"...Wine Lady (WL)-"just last weekend I paired this with chocolate the other evening, went over fabulously, if you have the right chocolate...bitter dark, of course"...K-"now that there is food associated with it, I can taste the combination, delightful"...then there is me rolling my eyes! The dialogue continues...and since I had to sit through it...so do you...WL-"can you smell cherries?"....K-"YES!"...WL-"I couldn't before one of our clients mentioned it, it is blah blah cherry from over blah blah there"...K-"now all I can smell is the cherry"...wine 3...after Kim has rinsed her glass with water, WL-"we don't want to taste water, let's rinse that out with wine" - as she rinses out with wine...oh my god. WL-"now smell this glass (the one Kim just drank out of)...when it is empty you get the true smells...less blah blah per mL"...K-"wow, that is intense"...now the 4th wine...WL-"this one has cigar and berry tones, after being aged in French and American Oak"...K-"oh yes"...WL-"and banana (pronounced in a thick South African accent, doesn't sound like banana)...I mean banana (North American accent)"...K-whimsical laugh...me snob scale is hitting 12. I don't think we can top this winery, but Kim is going to give it a try.
The comparisons of wine to other smelly objects is always interesting...we had cigars, chocolate, cherry, banana, strawberry, black tea, oaky...I am sure there were a few more, but I only had the inspiration to pay attention for a blog entry half way through the day. Lucky for me, the pours weren't all quite as aggressive as the first spot, but Kim was feeling pretty good by the end (8 wineries in total). The other comment that made me laugh was..."I like the Shiraz, it is so up front"...
As we found out, it is easier to find a secret wine in BC than South Africa. Only one winery we visited didn't export to Canada (my pick, last one of the day was chosen by me do to their excellent logo). We only purchased a case of wine...very surprising to me!!
For dinner last night we went to a steak joint which boasts the largest wine bar with wine by the glass in the world - 130 wines by the glass. We were expecting a bit of a tacky place, but it turned out to be great. You wouldn't think Kim would get as excited as she did about a wine bar after having toured around wineries all day, but she was beside herself. Once we sat down at our table, our waiter sent the sommelier over to our table. The sommelier asked us where we were from - once she heard Canada, she started speaking French to Kim (I think they were talking about me). Turns out the sommelier is from France and followed her husband to South Africa.
The restaurant has a great set up for the wine by the glass. They have a system like what is used for draft beer. Each wine has a big straw into it and nitrogen fills up the empty space, so the wine stays perfect. The average wine is up there for 3 weeks...very interesting. Kim is starring at the wine tapping system and claims she needs one herself, not 130 wines, of course...just 12 or so...such modesty.
We haven't seen Table Mountain yet, covered in the famous "Table Clothe" so far...
G (&k)
Monday, August 22, 2005
made it!
Cape Town 2:17 pm - We made it to Cape Town with no glitches from South African Airways! Although there was a moment in Zanzibar, after we paid the $8 US security fee, the $25 US "departure tax" and were subjected to a very half assed "luggage search" when Grant looked at the staff and said "what could I possibly take from this god forsaken country?!?!?". Electricity availability being a little "sketchy" at best, there was none at the airport so the security scanner didn't work...neither did the fans, or the lights...gotta love the third world! Luckily, I don't imagine that terrorism is a big threat flying out of a beach town like Zanzibar.
We managed to get on standby for an earlier flight to Cape Town (with an upgrade to Business Class!!) from Jo'burg - all on South African Airways. One redemption for SAA on the trip so far. So we got in around 9 pm last night. The city is fantastic - kind of like a British version of San Francisco. It strikes me as a fabulous city to live in!! Tons to do - lots of wine and a million amazing restaurants!! (Don't worry Mom, I'm still coming home!). It is currently pouring rain (although I'm sure that doesn't elicit any sympathy back home) so we ducked into an internet cafe quickly in the hopes that the rain would soon pass. Due to the weather, we haven't actually "seen" Table Mountain yet but hope to get there sometime in the next few days. Tomorrow looks like a wine day through Stellenboesch (yes, Jenkins - I remember about shipping wine!!) and our plans eventually include heading out to Robben Island for some Nelson Mandela history.
Although our time in Tanzania was amazing and very eye opening, WOW! Was it ever great to get back to paved roads, big cities, coffee shops and yes, even McDonalds. Grant insisted that our first meal in Cape Town came from those "Golden Arches"!! Even I find it tough to pair a wine with that - even if McDonald's did sell it!!
See you all soon!!!!
k&g
We managed to get on standby for an earlier flight to Cape Town (with an upgrade to Business Class!!) from Jo'burg - all on South African Airways. One redemption for SAA on the trip so far. So we got in around 9 pm last night. The city is fantastic - kind of like a British version of San Francisco. It strikes me as a fabulous city to live in!! Tons to do - lots of wine and a million amazing restaurants!! (Don't worry Mom, I'm still coming home!). It is currently pouring rain (although I'm sure that doesn't elicit any sympathy back home) so we ducked into an internet cafe quickly in the hopes that the rain would soon pass. Due to the weather, we haven't actually "seen" Table Mountain yet but hope to get there sometime in the next few days. Tomorrow looks like a wine day through Stellenboesch (yes, Jenkins - I remember about shipping wine!!) and our plans eventually include heading out to Robben Island for some Nelson Mandela history.
Although our time in Tanzania was amazing and very eye opening, WOW! Was it ever great to get back to paved roads, big cities, coffee shops and yes, even McDonalds. Grant insisted that our first meal in Cape Town came from those "Golden Arches"!! Even I find it tough to pair a wine with that - even if McDonald's did sell it!!
See you all soon!!!!
k&g
Saturday, August 20, 2005
Mzungu
Stone Town, Zanzibar 8:15pm - So, picture two fantastic Canadian travelers out to experience the real Africa. How better than to try the local food at the outdoor night market...perfect.
Kim and Grant wander down to the Forodhani Market for a bite to eat...Kim appropriately attired in long skirt and long sleeves (not to offend any of the locals - who are largely Muslim)...which when you are in 28C+ weather, it is not that comfortable. Imagine hundreds of food stands - outdoor BBQ's, tables of kebabs with every variety of protein known to man, souvenir stands, fruit stands, sugarcane juicers - you name it, they have it. Our friend Sonny said you haven't experienced a country until you have eaten on the street with the locals - him having worked in Africa for many years also added the following advice - eat well cooked meat and bread only, forget everything else. So with our mind set on experiencing the local action and filling our tummies, we quickly made friends with Arif. To our suprise, Arif's brother is living in Toronto - so Arif earns himself a Canadian flag pin!!
At this point we feel like we have found lost kin. Arif talks us through the process and selection. Prawns, lobster, calimari, chicken, beef, tuna, mussels, naan bread, sweet bananas, samosas. With our selection made they toss everything back on the BBQ for a quick heat up. A few photos are taken, we laugh, we cajole - Arif finds a table to sit down...he also pitches a "spice tour" to us for tomorrow - we need permits, etc - we say we need time to discuss...I reach into my pocket to pay - Arif says no, we collect after, you enjoy the food first - Hakuna Matata!!
We quickly make friends with our table mates - Amina and her friend who is a civil engineer from Dar. Amina is a tour guide from Moshi (where we started our adventure) - once again flag pins are flying!
At this point lets make something else clear...our guide book - Lonely Planet - which did so well in guiding us to Sazani Beach Resort, comments that cheap meals - 500 Tsh ($0.50) can be easily had at the market. Also several other travelers we have met have confirmed the cheapness and goodness of the meals. Being of Scottish decent, this place is calling out to me...
Arif comes to check on us, we decide that to top off our very excellent and successful food adventure, we need to try a sweet banana. Moments later a banana appears and is chowed down...delicious!
Now, time to pay...Arif once again pitches the spice tour, we decline...no hard feelings...what do we owe for dinner? He thinks for a moment, I am expecting 5000 Tsh ($5)...he says 18,000 Tsh ($18)...the look on Kim's face must have said it all...because he then began to explain that you could get a meal much cheaper, but the quality wouldn't be the same - the vendor would just be trying to clear out inventory...so I hand over 20,000 Tsh...keep the change...always tip the guy who is swindling you...this is where hs face looked like Kim's earlier...not only did he swindle us, but gets a $2 tip...what a night (for him)!!!
We are compiling a list of the top ten things we learned in Africa...a hint to one of the items on the list...even if the guy's brother lives in your country, you've given the guy a flag and you think you are brothers, ask the price before you order at an outdoor market!!!
g&k
Kim and Grant wander down to the Forodhani Market for a bite to eat...Kim appropriately attired in long skirt and long sleeves (not to offend any of the locals - who are largely Muslim)...which when you are in 28C+ weather, it is not that comfortable. Imagine hundreds of food stands - outdoor BBQ's, tables of kebabs with every variety of protein known to man, souvenir stands, fruit stands, sugarcane juicers - you name it, they have it. Our friend Sonny said you haven't experienced a country until you have eaten on the street with the locals - him having worked in Africa for many years also added the following advice - eat well cooked meat and bread only, forget everything else. So with our mind set on experiencing the local action and filling our tummies, we quickly made friends with Arif. To our suprise, Arif's brother is living in Toronto - so Arif earns himself a Canadian flag pin!!
At this point we feel like we have found lost kin. Arif talks us through the process and selection. Prawns, lobster, calimari, chicken, beef, tuna, mussels, naan bread, sweet bananas, samosas. With our selection made they toss everything back on the BBQ for a quick heat up. A few photos are taken, we laugh, we cajole - Arif finds a table to sit down...he also pitches a "spice tour" to us for tomorrow - we need permits, etc - we say we need time to discuss...I reach into my pocket to pay - Arif says no, we collect after, you enjoy the food first - Hakuna Matata!!
We quickly make friends with our table mates - Amina and her friend who is a civil engineer from Dar. Amina is a tour guide from Moshi (where we started our adventure) - once again flag pins are flying!
At this point lets make something else clear...our guide book - Lonely Planet - which did so well in guiding us to Sazani Beach Resort, comments that cheap meals - 500 Tsh ($0.50) can be easily had at the market. Also several other travelers we have met have confirmed the cheapness and goodness of the meals. Being of Scottish decent, this place is calling out to me...
Arif comes to check on us, we decide that to top off our very excellent and successful food adventure, we need to try a sweet banana. Moments later a banana appears and is chowed down...delicious!
Now, time to pay...Arif once again pitches the spice tour, we decline...no hard feelings...what do we owe for dinner? He thinks for a moment, I am expecting 5000 Tsh ($5)...he says 18,000 Tsh ($18)...the look on Kim's face must have said it all...because he then began to explain that you could get a meal much cheaper, but the quality wouldn't be the same - the vendor would just be trying to clear out inventory...so I hand over 20,000 Tsh...keep the change...always tip the guy who is swindling you...this is where hs face looked like Kim's earlier...not only did he swindle us, but gets a $2 tip...what a night (for him)!!!
We are compiling a list of the top ten things we learned in Africa...a hint to one of the items on the list...even if the guy's brother lives in your country, you've given the guy a flag and you think you are brothers, ask the price before you order at an outdoor market!!!
g&k
Friday, August 19, 2005
too hot to be outside
Zanzibar 10 am - well, it's 10 am and we've already hit the shade...wow it gets hot here! ;) The tide is currently out and teams of locals have hit the low waters in search of fish, octopus and other dinner delicacies! It's quite the "hunt and gather" scene!! We managed to get in to the local village for dinner on one occasion, which was very nice...up until about midnight when it struck me (Kim) that food poisoning may have been the "entree du jour". Luckily, 24 hours of queasiness (including a good 4 hours in bed that morning) and I seem to be as good as new. I guess not everything can be perfect...damn shrimp. I just didn't want Grant to feel alone in his vomitting.
Looks like another two dives this afternoon as there is a reef about 2 km off our very own beach. Tonight will be our last night here as we head to Stonetown (the biggest village on Zanzibar - mostly an old muslim town) for one night before going to Cape Town. We've met more lovely tourists here at Sazani including Angeline whose family owns a winery in Stellenboesch. I'm strategizing about importing since they're not currently available in Alberta...apparently they won "one of the top 100 wines of the world" - four years running in Wine Spectator!! (sorry Janice - we'll keep some for you for after the baby is born!!). Uch and Maura - Congratulations!!! There's not much stress (or rain) on our beach today!
As for all those who wanted to know what happened to Jack...yes he made it to the top of Kili when he was here several years ago. He is no longer a flip flop and shorts backpacker but has attained the respectable status as broker with First Associates (with a lovely wife and three adorable children).
k&g
Looks like another two dives this afternoon as there is a reef about 2 km off our very own beach. Tonight will be our last night here as we head to Stonetown (the biggest village on Zanzibar - mostly an old muslim town) for one night before going to Cape Town. We've met more lovely tourists here at Sazani including Angeline whose family owns a winery in Stellenboesch. I'm strategizing about importing since they're not currently available in Alberta...apparently they won "one of the top 100 wines of the world" - four years running in Wine Spectator!! (sorry Janice - we'll keep some for you for after the baby is born!!). Uch and Maura - Congratulations!!! There's not much stress (or rain) on our beach today!
As for all those who wanted to know what happened to Jack...yes he made it to the top of Kili when he was here several years ago. He is no longer a flip flop and shorts backpacker but has attained the respectable status as broker with First Associates (with a lovely wife and three adorable children).
k&g
Wednesday, August 17, 2005
Nungwi
Zanzibar 1:15 pm - Thanks Wrigglesworth! I'm looking forward to at least a couple more dives - apparently there's a decent one right off the reef on our beach! Will keep you posted!
We made our walk in to Nungwi village yesterday. A very interesting little place and obviously doing very well by the tourists arriving in droves to Zanzibar. Although the mass of resorts/restaurants are a stark contrast to the mud huts only a few minutes walk away. The locals are friendly and the little kids more than enthusiastic to wave to strangers. Someone has taught the little ones to say "money" at the first sight of a white person...not surprising I suppose. We've posted a picture of the "waste management" project on the road to Nungwi...hope you get as much humor out of it as we did!! We also found Joanne (the Canadian from Penticton) who has opened a coffee shop in the compound of her husband's family hotel. Always enthusiastic to find another Canadian we had cake and cold drinks - I couldn't manage hot coffee in 30 degree weather but hey...those are the struggles we deal with here daily. :)
Since I've completely lost track of the days...I'll wish my Baby Bro a Happy Birthday and Mom and Dad a Happy Anniversary!! Looking forward to celebrating when we get home!! BTW - Mom...are you reading this?!?! No comments from you yet? Nice restraint! Love you all!
Nancy - nice work at Tony Roma's...I'm learning a few good tricks here!!!
k&g
Monday, August 15, 2005
pix
I think/hope the pictures are now showing, so browse down to see them
Also, if you don't want to set up a user at blogger.com...you can send us an email at macafrica@gmail.com
g
Also, if you don't want to set up a user at blogger.com...you can send us an email at macafrica@gmail.com
g
Bonamine is not a wonder drug
Zanzibar 5:00 pm - Well, the weather in paradise is still slightly cloudy but it looks like sunshine for the next 5 days! We spent the rest of yesterday getting used to the cheap beers and perfecting the "hammock sleeping position". All in all very restful. Today we moved on to a little adventure. Michael (a.k.a. John Cleese) arranged a snorkel/dive trip about an hour off our shore. The very small boat (dhow) that took us out was lovely and the ocean was quite calm. Or so I thought. We arrived at our first destination and Michael and I dropped into the water with our SCUBA gear and the others carried on to their first snorkel sight. The diving is amazing. Water temperature is about 25 degrees and visibility is excellent!! More fish than you can ever imagine although nothing too outrageous on the first dive. Back into the boat for an hour rest before the second dive and none of the snorkelers are looking too enthralled with this bit of paradise.
Someone spots dolphins not too far in the distance so as I excitedly call out to Grant to look at this magnificent view, he waves me off...appearing to be currently enthralled in something he sees close to the surface on his side. Not wanting to miss any of the action, I move over to see that it's really nothing more than God's biggest toilet that Grant is enthralled with. Bonamine (a motion sickness drug) which apparently worked wonders on the cruise, has no effectiveness on board a dhow. He wasn't the only one suffering as there were two others horizontal on the front of the boat moaning also.
Notwithstanding this chaos, Michael and I dropped down for another dive and notwithstanding the dolphins visible at surface, there was no dolphin encounter 14 m under water (sadly). I did run into two fabulous turtles who stayed stationary and let us get very close. A multitude of other fish (one so big I could count his molars!!) and some ocean worms. All in all - a great success!! I'd say we'd be back for more, but that remains to be seen.
Off to tour the local village tomorrow (about a 45 minute walk). Apparently a lovely Canadian girl has set up a coffee shop - should be interesting to see amongst the mud huts!!!
k&g
Someone spots dolphins not too far in the distance so as I excitedly call out to Grant to look at this magnificent view, he waves me off...appearing to be currently enthralled in something he sees close to the surface on his side. Not wanting to miss any of the action, I move over to see that it's really nothing more than God's biggest toilet that Grant is enthralled with. Bonamine (a motion sickness drug) which apparently worked wonders on the cruise, has no effectiveness on board a dhow. He wasn't the only one suffering as there were two others horizontal on the front of the boat moaning also.
Notwithstanding this chaos, Michael and I dropped down for another dive and notwithstanding the dolphins visible at surface, there was no dolphin encounter 14 m under water (sadly). I did run into two fabulous turtles who stayed stationary and let us get very close. A multitude of other fish (one so big I could count his molars!!) and some ocean worms. All in all - a great success!! I'd say we'd be back for more, but that remains to be seen.
Off to tour the local village tomorrow (about a 45 minute walk). Apparently a lovely Canadian girl has set up a coffee shop - should be interesting to see amongst the mud huts!!!
k&g
Sunday, August 14, 2005
We found it!
Zanzibar 1:20pm - Yes, we have found tropical paradise AND clean clothes!!! Stan is the MAN. We awoke at 5:45am on Saturday (worse than a work day!) to drive back to Arusha (a 4 hour drive) to get to Kili Airport to see if we had luggage. Upon our arrival at the airport, a bit of fanagelling...voila...2 bags belonging to Kim and Grant!!! We also found 2 lost Italian tourists who don't have a grasp of Swahili or English - so after discussing their options with their travel agent in Italy who did speak English, Kim convinced them to join us. So with our bags and 2 Italians, we headed back to Arusha to grab lunch and then grab our flight to Zanzibar!
The Arusha airport is very small...and everyone is looking for a tip...if they talk to you they want a $1. After walking about 1km to the plane filled with 21 excited vacationers - we were off! After having found our luggage, we were a bit hesitant to check them again, but ZanAir seems to have their luggage department functioning on all cylinders. The 3rd man powered luggage cart arrived with our bags on it - now off to find a driver! After 1 1/2 hours driving - the last 40 minutes over very bumpy roads - we caught a glimpse of our "resort". The drive took us through some very poverty stricken locales - we both wondered in silence if our "resort" was going to be a resort or not.
At the reception area, Michael, Sazani's English proprietor (picture John Cleese from Faulty Towers) greeted us and showed us to our room. He said he would give us the full rundown of the joint over a beer at the bar...fine by us! As we approached the bar (pictured above) we knew were going to enjoy this place! Michael explained how the bar system works...you grab two beers, you write them down - part of his cost saving mission - self bartending! We inquired to the price of the beers - $1.50 US and still 500ml - we thought beers were cheap before! Kim quickly inquired about the wine price - which are good South African wines - Michael responded that they were outrageously price at $16US per bottle!!! Kim has been outrageous ever since!!
The other photo we have attached is the view from the deck attached to our room...sorry to rub it in, but we have earned it!!!
The weather today is cloudy and off and on rains. But the food is great, the other guests are fun - and Michael has never ending stories!!
Along with the great deal on drinks, inexpensive room rate - internet is $3US...for our whole stay - unlimited!!! If we can pull our selves away from snorkeling, diving, sleeping, eating, cheap drinks and the rest - we'll keep all you addicts up to date very frequently!!
Shel - glad you had the faith in us to make it to the top...what is Gord thinking??? And I have continued to be amazed at Kim's ability to find a bottle of wine and enjoy it no matter what the circumstances!!
We have also posted some corresponding pictures on the other posts...at this point it looks like the pictures aren't posting...I'll continue to work on this issue...
g&k
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