Back from the Dogon Country

We have just arrived back in Mopti from a great adventure in the Dogon Country. Dogon are the people the live in the area - so think of as visiting the Native Indian Country.

Our first stop was in a village that does a famous circumcision ceremony every 3 years. Unfortunately before we got to see any of that, they took us through a building they claimed to be a school and handed us a piece of paper with a little note on it. The note said give us money for our school. I was extrememly put off by this. They didn't tell me what it was going for, they didn't show me any kids in a school, they just held their hand out and ask for money. It makes you mad when they expect white people to provide money without any explanation of what they plan to do or what they have done. This really set me off in a bad direction. The area where they do the ceremony was interesting, but I had a hard time finding anything they told me genuine after the school fiasco. They also tried to tell me that if this one musical instruement, that is played every three years, was played now - all the women within 10km that were pregneant would abort their babies. Now that is just foolishness!!

Now that I was pissed off - we went and picked up our guide for the Dogon Country - Macki. Macki was great!! We stopped to look at the onions that are grown in the area. What a contrast of color - the rich green onion against the red rocks and red dirt. That night we were in the village of Ende, staying in a great little encampment. After dinner, Dicko found a guitar and played African and Blues under the stars. All the other guides were calling him Ringo Starr. The other guides and Dicko also started into discussing politics. The conversations were always very respectful, but passionate. Very interesting. We had a great time. A much better ending to the day!!

Day two in Dogon took us to a village built on the plateau (meaning we had to hike up to it). What a neat place. We arrived in Begnimato and then climbed to what they called the eagle nest. We had great views of the plains of Mali. On our way back to the village, Macki explained to us that buying a drink in the village was a way for them to feel socially conexted to us and supported them financially without just having thier hand out. Now this I understood and respected. We stopped for a couple Coke's, which came to $2, left them another $2 and they were over the moon!!

Macki was very open for questions and discussion. We discussed the women's menstration cycle, sex, local attitudes towards tourists. He has tried to explain to the local's that if the tourists don't buy something in their store, it is not because they don't like it, but that the tourists have a budget just like the locals. We can't buy everything we see. Also with locals saving up for their pilgramage to Mecca, they understand the expense of traveling and that the tourists just don't show up in a private jet and start throwing money around for a reason!

As we got back to the truck after our hike down, there were a few kids that followed us to the truck. We were playing tag with them. Hopped into the truck, which we got stuck in a sand river bed! The kids thought that was very funny, but started digging the wheels out. We all pushed and got it unstuck. This unexpected opportunity gave Kim and I a chance to connect with the kids in a way we otherwise wouldn't have. We took some photos with them. Showed them the camera, which they thought was very weird!!

Now we are off for a ride on the Niger River in our pinasse - more later!

g&k